Capillary-gravity and capillary waves generated in a wind wave tank: observations and theories

نویسنده

  • XIN ZHANG
چکیده

Short water surface waves generated by wind in a water tunnel have been measured by an optical technique that provides a synoptic picture of the water surface gradient over an area of water surface (Zhang & Cox 1994). These images of the surface gradient can be integrated to recover the shape of the water surface and find the two-dimensional wavenumber spectrum. Waveforms and two-dimensional structures of short wind waves have many interesting features: short and steep waves featuring sharp troughs and flat crests are very commonly seen and most of the short waves are far less steep than the limiting wave forms ; waveforms that resemble capillary-gravity solitons are observed with a close match to the form theoretically predicted for potential flows (Longuet-Higgins 1989); capillaries are mainly found as parasitics on the downwind faces of gravity waves, and the longest wavelengths of those parasitic capillaries found are less than 1 cm; the phenomenon of capillary blockage (Phillips 1981) on dispersive freely travelling short waves is also observed. The spectra of short waves generated by low winds show a characteristic dip at the transition wavenumber between the gravity and capillary regimes, and the dip becomes filled in as the wind increases. The spectral cut-off at high wavenumbers shows a power law behaviour with an exponent of about minus four. The wavenumber of the transition from the dip to the cut-off is not sensitive to the change of wind speed. The minus fourth power law of the extreme capillary wind wave spectrum can be explained through a model of energy balances. The concept of an equilibrium spectrum is still useful. It is shown that the dip in the spectrum of capillary-gravity waves is a result of blockage of both capillary-gravity wind waves and parasitic capillary waves.

برای دانلود متن کامل این مقاله و بیش از 32 میلیون مقاله دیگر ابتدا ثبت نام کنید

ثبت نام

اگر عضو سایت هستید لطفا وارد حساب کاربری خود شوید

منابع مشابه

STABILITY ANALYSIS FROM FOURTH ORDER NONLINEAR EVOLUTION EQUATIONS FOR TWO CAPILLARY GRAVITY WAVE PACKETS IN THE PRESENCE OF WIND OWING OVER WATER.

Asymptotically exact and nonlocal fourth order nonlinear evolution equations are derived for two coupled fourth order nonlinear evolution equations have been derived in deep water for two capillary-gravity wave packets propagating in the same direction in the presence of wind flowing over water.We have used a general method, based on Zakharov integral equation.On the basis of these evolution eq...

متن کامل

EFFECT OF COUNTERPROPAGATING CAPILLARY GRAVITY WAVE PACKETS ON THIRD ORDER NONLINEAR ‎‎E‎VOLUTION EQUATIONS IN THE PRESENCE OF WIND FLOWING OVER WATER

Asymptotically exact and nonlocal third order nonlinear evolution equations are derivedfor two counterpropagating surface capillary gravity wave packets in deep water in thepresence of wind flowing over water.From these evolution equations stability analysis ismade for a uniform standing surface capillary gravity wave trains for longitudinal perturbation. Instability condition is obtained and g...

متن کامل

The equilibrium dynamics and statistics of gravity–capillary waves

Recent field observations and modelling of breaking surface gravity waves suggest that air-entraining breaking is not sufficiently dissipative of surface gravity waves to balance the dynamics of wind-wave growth and nonlinear interactions with dissipation for the shorter gravity waves of O(10) cm wavelength. Theories of parasitic capillary waves that form at the crest and forward face of shorte...

متن کامل

Spectral characterization of fine-scale wind waves using shipboard optical polarimetry

Fine-scale sea surface waves are of profound importance to a number of air-sea interaction processes. Due to a number of reasons, there exists a great degree of difficulty in obtaining quality in situ observations of these waves. This paper presents the application of a shipboard wave-sensing method toward the following quantifications: regime-specific contribution to sea surface slope and sens...

متن کامل

The period - doubling of gravity - capillary waves

In this paper an attempt is made to explain the period-doubling of wind-generated gravity-capillary waves as observed in the experimentofChoi (1977). It is conjectured that period-doubling is closely related to the phenomenon of second-harmonic resonance. In order to obtain a simple dynamical model, results of McGoldrick (1970) and Simmons (1969) are extended to include the effect of wind input...

متن کامل

ذخیره در منابع من


  با ذخیره ی این منبع در منابع من، دسترسی به آن را برای استفاده های بعدی آسان تر کنید

برای دانلود متن کامل این مقاله و بیش از 32 میلیون مقاله دیگر ابتدا ثبت نام کنید

ثبت نام

اگر عضو سایت هستید لطفا وارد حساب کاربری خود شوید

عنوان ژورنال:

دوره   شماره 

صفحات  -

تاریخ انتشار 2005